Namibia by car. Central Coast (I), from Cape Cross to Henties Bay.

3 months road trip in Southern Africa, 
Namibia, Botswana, South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland. 
October - December 2014 

Average exchange rate: 1 € = 13,75 N$

The route between Cape Cross to Walvis Bay its around 250 km and we did it in 2 days (stopping in Swakopmund).
The area is desert.

The central coast of Namibia is easy to drive. The road from Swakopmund to Walvis Bay is tarred, 40 km with high traffic as it´s the road from the main Namibian port to the capital Windhoek.
North of Swakopmund, there are salt roads, hard ground.
The road to/from Uis meets the coastal road 5 km north of Henties Bay.

Now the coastal road and its surrounds are the Dorob National Park, so the “off driving”outside the roads and the “overnight camping” is forbidden. No check points or fees, crossing the park.

North of Cape Cross the road continues following the coast and then heads inside to Palwag and Damaraland. It´s the Skeleton National Park, and a special permit is needed with an entrance fee (80 $/pp+10 N$/car).
The coastal road til Torra Bay is a salt road, but you don´t notice that because its perfect to drive, at least in dry season.  Secondary roads to Brandberg seem to be in very bad conditions. Ask before!


Famous fishing area for south africans and white namibian people. You need a special permit for fishing. Different access roads to the coast.

Henties Bay beach has a big sandy cliff or dune, have a look.
Beautiful landscape between Henties Bay and Cape Cross.
Very windy!

Cape cross seal colony:

Price - entrance fee: 80 N$/pp + 10 N$/car.
The easiest and more accesible seal colony to visit (there are around 20 colonies, some in remote places).
Managed by the national parks of Namibia.
November and december are really busy, many babies are born.
Rocky point, ocean and long sandy bay up north.
It´s a real different experience to see these animals, full of activity. Strong smell.
There´s a platform at the parking to see them. Quite short visit (for the price you pay... same than Etosha!).

Henties Bay to Swakopmund:

20 km south of Henties Bay, there´s a wreck on a beach (sign).
Wlotskasbaken, half way, is a fishermen holiday village, with funny “Lego” houses.

Cheap accommodation in Henties Bay:

Not many cheap options in Henties Bay, many lodges mostly. The prices for camping are high because the area is very popular with fisherman.  For us, it was the first timestaying in a camping with private WC in each site.

After looking around Henties, we noticed that no cheaper options, so finally we stayed there:

Buck´s campsite (Henties Bay):
Price for camping site: 250 N$/site (til 4 people).
Individual WC/washing in each site. 

It´s the only campsite not in front of the ocean, so protected from the wind, and well equiped in all the area. Central location, near the supermarkets. Free wifi at the reception.

Cheap accommodation in Cape Cross:

All year round, the only option is Cape Cross Lodge,  4 km north of the seal colony.  
Expensive, the campsite costs 400 N$ for 2 people! And the rooms are really more expensive.

During the fishing season, at the seal colony (national park managment), there´s a small rustic campsite, in front of a beach, but few and small sites, with walls to stop the wind.
The services are limited, only toilet, no shower. 
Open in november.
Prices: 100 N$/pp (not cheap for the small confort!).

Cheap accommodation on the coast around Henties Bay:

Campsites essentially for fishermen, in front of the ocean, so the places are very windy. 

The locations are:

- Mile 72 (half way between Cape Cross and Henties Bay)
- Mile 108 (north of Cape Cross)
- Jakkalsputz (10 km south of Henties bay)
- Mile 14 (20 km north of Swakopmund).

The price is 100 N$ per person. Most of them have just a toilet. No water.